Day 6 of 2022 Arizona Trip, Bright Angel Trail of Grand Canyon National Park

by admin

Sixth day of my 2021 Arizona trip, my friend and I would spend the day hiking Bright Angel Trail, the most popular trail in the park that went from the south canyon rim all the way down to Colorado River, and back up again. Along the way was a diverse and wondrous collection of canyon landscapes that never failed to impress.

Grand Canyon from Bright Angel Trail

After reaching Grand Canyon Village the previous night, we had about 1.5 days to spend in and around Grand Canyon before our flight back tomorrow night. The south rim of Grand Canyon National Park consisted of many roadside vistas so that visitors could admire the spectacular landscape down below. In addition, a few hiking trails led from the canyon rim down to Colorado River, the most popular of which being Bright Angel Trail. It’s a 24.6km out-and-back trail with 1365m elevation gain, and my friend and I determined that we were fit enough to hike it in one day.

Bright Angel Trail

For a hiking trail, the Bright Angel Trail was well-developed. At 1.5 and 3 miles from trailhead there were pit toilets (in summer months there would also be water stations) . At 4.5 miles from trailhead it’s the Indian Garden Campground, an oasis among nearby arid landscape. It offered the only water station in winter months, together with pit toilets. Finally at the end of the trail by the Colorado River, there was an additional pit toilet. Along the way we saw phone cables and emergency phone booths, yet the park warned visitors not to over-rely on possible rescues and allow time to go back up to South Rim before sunset.

Here’s GPS tracking:

In addition, I used GoPro to record portions of the hike, here are two videos, one at regular playback speed, one at 8x playback speed.

From Trailhead to Indian Garden

We reached the trailhead and started our hike just before 8am, about 20 minutes after sunrise. It was pretty cold in the morning on the canyon rim, typical for visiting the Grand Canyon in the winter.
In addition, considerable portions of the trail before the 1.5-mile resthouse was covered in snow and ice. While my hiking boots alone could handle most of that with no issue (since the snow surface had pattern/grain which provided traction) , there were a few slippery sections where the ice was really smooth. So out of abundance of caution, we used microspikes.

The slideshow below showed pictures taken at the end of our hike.

Trail
Through an interesting tunnel.
Trail
At higher elevations, the trail was covered in snow and ice in shaded areas.
Trail
At higher elevations, the trail was covered in snow and ice in shaded areas.
Canyon Wall
The trail made a few switchbacks on its way down the canyon.
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
1.5mi Resthouse

Grand Canyon

On the trail we watched the sun rise and patches of the canyons across the river light up, while the rest of them remained in gloomy shadows of blue. I liked that the foregrounds of these photos were also canyons that we were descending into.

As elevation lowered and temperature rose, the snow and ice was clearing up, so I took off microspikes just before the 1.5-mile resthouse.

Trail Switchback
Trail Switchback
3-mile resthouse in the upper end of this photo.
Trail
Distant Indian Garden
A campground where we could rest our legs and replenish water supply.
Trail Switchback
Trail Switchback
Trail Switchback
Trail
Trail
Trail
Helicopter

For both today and the next day, we saw a helicopter seemed to visit Indian Garden Campground in the morning. My friend and I weren’t too sure what that’s for.
Pipeline
This seemed to be supplying water to the Indian Garden Campground.
Donkey Riders

Finally, I saw the culprits of all the unpleasant stuff along the trail, being raised in Indian Garden Campground.

While it’s the most popular trail in Grand Canyon National Park (by AllTrails), a downside was that Bright Angel Trail was also used by donkeys, and their droppings were all over the place. We visited in winter and they smelt really bad from far away, I could only imagine it getting worse for the popular summer months. Some search later and I found out nowadays the mules were mostly used for recreational tours, and it’s a pity that they couldn’t collect the droppings like rest of the developed world.

Canyon Wall
Wall
Somehow, a thin layer of ice managed to stick to this vertical wall.
Wall
Somehow, a thin layer of ice managed to stick to this vertical wall.
Alcove
Another near-vertical wall with patches of ice.
Rock Formation
Rock Formation
Alcove

Approaching Indian Garden, I was pretty impressed when I looked back at the canyon walls that we just descended from. Rocks from different geological layers complement each other with the contrast of colors, and for the first time, I felt the humbling experience of being inside a towering canyon, where the nature’s creation was tangible and powerful.

Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Canyon Wall
Rock Formations
Rock Formations

It’s a bit surprising that I felt a bit hot between 1.5-mi and 3-mi resthouses, probably because the canyon landscape was channeling warm air upwards at the switchbacks. Once approaching Indian Garden, it was cold again.

Finally, we reached Indian Garden Campground just past 10am, where we took a 20-minute rest with snacks and drinks. Going downhill in cold weather meant we went through much less water than anticipated.

From Indian Garden to Colorado River

At about 10:30am, we set off from Indian Garden towards the Colorado River.

Trail
After leaving Indian Garden, the trail followed a small canyon carved by Garden Creek.

Tree in Garden Creek Canyon

Distant Mountains
Zoroaster Temple
Top of Mountain
Visibly belonging to a different geological layer than the bottom.
Top of Mountain
Visibly belonging to a different geological layer than the bottom.
Hill

This one was closer to us, but I believed it belong to the same geological layer as the previous mountain tops.
Canyon
Mountain
The Battleship

About halfway between Indian Garden and Colorado River, the trail entered another canyon that’s most dazzling. Here layered mountains solemnly stood in array as the terrain rose from the river bed, just like royal guards lining the staired carpet that led to a throne that’s high up on the south rim, a scene that overwhelmed the burden of a long trek to the place.

Canyon
Taken during our descent.
Canyon
Taken later in the day, during our ascent.
Trail down Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon

Towards the other side of Colorado River, we were no longer overlooking the canyons, but felt like inside of them. The mountains were closer, and the sights were great.

Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Distant Mountains
Mountain
Mountain

Trail

Following switchbacks down the canyon, the most scenic section between Indian Garden and Colorado River.
Trail
Switchback down the canyon.
Trail
Trough
A sign of the animal use on the trail.
Waterfall
Earlier in Garden Creek Canyon.
Water Crossing
At the few water crossings there were exposed rocks so that one could stay dry.
Trail
Towards the end, the trail followed Pipe Creek as it neared Colorado River.
Trail
Towards the end, the trail followed Pipe Creek as it neared Colorado River.

After a series of switchbacks descending down the previous canyon, the trail briefly entered a wider valley floor where it made a few water crossings. Some of the sections were a little bit muddy. After that, it followed Pipe Creek between two steep walls for a final time before reaching Colorado River.

Mountain
Canyon Wall
Canyon
Canyon
Canyon
Trail in Canyon

Towards the end, the trail followed Pipe Creek as it made its way towards Colorado River in a small but deep canyon.
Trail in Canyon

Towards the end, the trail followed Pipe Creek as it made its way towards Colorado River in a small but deep canyon.
Trail in Canyon

Towards the end, the trail followed Pipe Creek as it made its way towards Colorado River in a small but deep canyon.

Colorado River

Finally, we reached Colorado River just before noon.
Here the torrents of Colorado River felt composed, there’s even a beach for visitors to feel its temper. Yet just a short distance away the splashes of white water unveiled glimpses of its raging potential. It’s like a mighty warrior wearing its approachable face, greeting worthy travelers at the end of their journey.

Colorado River from Trail End

Compared with all the splendor earlier in the day, the mountains as viewed from Colorado River weren’t that awe-inspiring, and to some extent monotone, as the brownish rocks blended uneventfully into the flow of Colorado River.

Colorado River
Colorado River
Colorado River
Colorado River
Zoroaster Temple
Zoroaster Temple
Mountain

We spent about 30 minutes listening to the roar of Colorado River, had some more snacks in the warmth of the sun, before starting the journey back at 12:30pm.

As we approached Indian Garden, my friend spotted a deer in the woods, enjoying its lunch.

Deer

And later we found a raven, sitting on the bench next to Indian Garden’s water station, seemingly not afraid of people at all.

Raven
Raven
Raven
Raven
Raven

We reached Indian Garden just after 2pm. My friend and I were both feeling well, so after a short stop to replenish our water bottles, we were off.

From Indian Garden to Trailhead

Grand Canyon

Leaving Indian Garden, these mountains on the opposite site of Colorado River was a constant backdrop.
Grand Canyon

Leaving Indian Garden, these mountains on the opposite site of Colorado River was a constant backdrop.
Grand Canyon
Soon, it felt like a proper canyon with walls on both sides of us.
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
Brahma Temple and Zoroaster Temple

In the afternoon, the canyons across Colorado River were directly in the light, with their texture and colors in full display, providing a marvelous backdrop as we made our way back up the trail.

Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
Bright Angel Canyon
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon

Farther up, Indian Garden appeared dwarfed by the surrounding canyons, a good overview of the first part of the trip.

Bright Angel Trail down Grand Canyon
Bright Angel Trail down Grand Canyon
Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden Campground
Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon

Finally, we got back to the trailhead at 5pm, concluding this 9-hour journey of the best-rated hiking trail in Grand Canyon National Park.

Brief Review

While the trail was long and physically demanding, it rewarded those up to its task with views of different parts of the canyon that’s almost constantly changing. A highlight of Grand Canyon National Park was that it enclosed the portions of Colorado River that carved through the most geological layers, and this trail went through them all. It was hard to put into words the excitement that I felt when the trail went beyond Indian Garden, where another set of canyons opened up in front of me. Not for a second time during this trip did I witness such variety of geological layers, either in Sedona or later around Little Colorado River Gorge.
While the trail was physically demanding, it’s well developed that in the hot summer months, there were 3 water stations along the way, together with 4 year-round pit toilets, so I felt the park authority was making it as accessible as possible to many people. Not to mention the mule tours that it offered, which, if you ask me, I certainly wasn’t fond of their droppings.
Instead of hiking all the way to Colorado River, the trail offered a few less intensive alternatives. After Indian Garden, one may opt to continue towards Plateau Point, at a similar elevation with Indian Garden and overlooking Colorado River. My bet was that Plateau Point offered better views than the end of Bright Angel Trail next to Colorado River. In addition, both 1.5 and 3 mile resthouse offered decent views down the canyon, I would personally recommend the 3-mile resthouse (continue beyond the resthouse for about 100m to a rocky outcrop). We ran into more hikers on our way back than out, with a mixture of overnight campers and day-hikers (for only portions of the trail).
For avid adventurers, an alternative would be adding South Kaibab to Bright Angel Trail and make it a loop. This would require usage of the park’s shuttle bus, and depending on whether to visit Phantom Ranch, this would add at least 3.5km to the distance but I bet it should be more fun.

Hermit Road

There was still some time till dark after we were back at the trailhead, so we decided to visit a few vistas along Hermit Road to the west.

Mohave Point

Our first stop was Mohave Point, facing the west where we were hoping to catch the sunset. Unfortunately there were a few clouds over the western horizon.

Colorado River in Grand Canyon
Colorado River in Grand Canyon
Colorado River in Grand Canyon
Sunset
Sunset

Hopi Point

Then we traced back towards Hopi Point, which was located on sort of a rocky outcrop and thus offer broader views.

Grand Canyon from Hopi Point

As of this moment, the sun had set, and the canyons were wearing the soft twilight colors. My camera and my eyes were enjoying every bit of their vivid colors, but unfortunately wind was strong at the exposed Hopi Point, and my body was trembling from the bitterness. (Somehow, my ~~Canadian~~ Michigan friend was immune to it.)

Grand Canyon
To the far east, Wotans Throne and Vishnu Temple.
Grand Canyon
A long canyon leading up the North Rim.
Grand Canyon
To the north, Isis Temple and Cheops Pyramid.
Horn Creek Canyon
Grand Canyon
To the north, Osiris Temple.
Colorado River in Grand Canyon
The Alligator

As it got darker, I switched to my other 20mm lens that offered larger aperture, and captured the final few shots, before I had to retreat back to the relative warmth of the car.